MP-BoatDoc Article Archivesﾃつ
ﾃつ Fall Lay-up:
ﾃつ Nothing is harder on your boat than neglect, and neglect is exactly what recreational boats are subjected to when cold weather settles in. But proper lay-up techniques can minimize the ill effects winter disuse will have on your boat.
A prime objective of lay-up is to prepare your boat for the inevitability of freezing conditions.ﾃつ Fluids must be removed or protected, and nothing should be aboard that might be damaged by low temperatures. Prepare a checklist The most important tool for properly winterizing your boat is a pencil. Unless you prepare a comprehensive checklist--and follow it--chances are good that you will miss a step or two. Spending a few minutes now tailoring the generic checklist below to your specific requirements will next spring save you hours of dealing with the consequences of an oversight.
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Empty lockers of perishables Also take off any cans or bottles containing liquids that could freeze. Freezeproof the toilet Every toilet I have ever removed has dumped water (I hope) on the cabin sole when turned sideways to pass through the head door, so pumping a toilet "dry" may prove inadequate. Disconnect the inlet hose from the closed seacock and submerge it in a 50-50 mix of water and propylene glycol antifreeze. Operate the head until you are sure the antifreeze has passed through the toilet and all lines. If you have an onboard sewage treatment system, follow the manufacturer's instructions for winterizing. NOTE: For all pump, tank, and hose winterizing, use only non-toxic propylene glycol antifreeze. Never use the ethylene glycol type--common automotive antifreeze--which is poisonous. Pump out the holding tank If the holding tank was empty and clean when you treated the toilet, you can leave the antifreeze mix in the tank, but an empty tank is better. Empty all freshwater tanks Antifreeze is not practical because a 50-50 solution is required, and you then have to empty the tanks in the spring anyway. Remember that the pump pickup is above the bottom, so you will have to pump or sponge the tank dry through the clean-out port. This is a good time to wipe down the interior of the tank with a chlorine solution.
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Drain the water heater If your water heater has an electrical element, electrically disconnect the heater before you drain it. Because the element will burn out unless submerged, attach a tag to the electrical connection to remind you to refill the tank before restoring the connection. Drain or protect pumps and hoses. Even though you are going to drain pumps and hoses, it is advisable to pump a 50-50 antifreeze solution through them to protect pockets or low spots that could be harboring residual water. If your boat is fitted with a water heater--now empty--bypass it (by disconnecting inlet and outlet hoses and connecting them together) so the antifreeze reaches the hot-water side of your plumbing. NOTE: For uncomplicated water delivery configurations, draining--without the antifreeze treatment--will be adequate as long as you make sure no water remains in pumps or low spots in hoses. Drain the accumulator Water doesn't actually flow through your accumulator tank, so pumping antifreeze through the lines puts very little into the accumulator--like pouring more water into a full jug. If it doesn't drain when you remove the hoses, blow through the T connector, or dismount the tank and shake it empty.
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Protect refrigeration and air-conditioning condensers. Internal loops in the water passages typically prevent complete drainage, so disconnect the raw-water connection from the closed seacock and submerge it in a 50-50 antifreeze mix. Run the system to force the antifreeze through the pump and all lines. Drain. Drain baitwell and/or washdown pumps and hoses. Check valves can prevent the lines from draining completely, so you may need to disconnect hoses at both ends. Baitwell tanks must, of course, be empty. Empty shower sumps Don't expect the pump to leave the shower sump dry. You will need to release the sump and pour it empty or sponge the sump dry.
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Empty propane lines. Light a burner on the galley stove--and any other gas appliances--then turn off the manual valve on the propane tank(s). When the burner(s) goes out, close it and flip the solenoid switch to off. Remove sails and canvas. Exposing awnings and sails to winter storms--even folded or furled--definitely shortens and too often terminates their lives. Lubricate furling systems. If your furling system requires lubrication, this is the time to do it. Service winches If you do this in the fall, you will know that the internal components are well protected from corrosion for the winter, and the winches will be ready for service in the spring without further attention.
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ﾃつ Remove electronics. Spending winters in a warm, dry place prolongs the life of your electronics. Taking them off the boat also eliminates the risk of theft. Spray the open connectors with a moisture-displacing lubricant to protect the contacts from the formation of corrosion. Extract the log impeller and replace it with the plug. Protect batteries. If wet-cell batteries are allowed to discharge the electrolyte becomes pure water, which will freeze and ruin the battery. On small boats, bring batteries to a fully charged condition, then remove them from the boat and store in a dry, cool (not frigid) location. Wash and thoroughly dry the tops of stored batteries to reduce the potential for self-discharge. Do not leave stored batteries connected to a portable charger. Unless the charger turns off completely--few do--the batteries will suffer damage. However, stored batteries should be brought to full charge once a month, so post yourself a reminder. If the batteries will be stored aboard because they are too heavy for convenient removal, they must be maintained in a full charge condition all winter. This requires a power connection and a charger with a "float" stage.
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Winterize the engine: A helpful checklist for this essential component of fall lay-up.Engine Winterization Tips Scrub the exterior. Flushing salt residue from hardware and rigging reduces the potential for corrosion, and grime left on fiberglass or painted surfaces until spring will be that much harder to remove. Touch up brightwork Do not leave damaged spots bare all winter. Wax fiberglass surfaces. A light coat of soft wax will protect the fiberglass from dirt and moisture. There is no need to buff it until spring. Empty the bilge. Bilge pumps typically fail to remove all water from the bilge. Any that remains will freeze. Pump and sponge the bilge completely dry. Open drain plug. Trailerable boats should be stored with the drain plug removed and the bow elevated so precipitation that finds its way inside the boat will drain out. Sailboats are sometimes fitted with a garboard drain plug to serve the same function when wintering ashore. Remove the plug and tag it conspicuously so you cannot forget to reinstall it in the spring. Close all seacocks except cockpit drains. If the boat is hauled, lubricate and exercise the seacocks--all of them--before closing them for the winter. Out of the water an open seacock still admits moisture, frigid air, and perhaps vermin, so close them. Vacuum, clean, and polish. Dirt and grease promote the growth of mold and mildew.
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Vacuum cushions, clean cabinet interiors, and damp-wipe all hard surfaces. Scrub the interior of refrigerators or ice chests with a mild chlorine solution. Place an open box of baking soda inside and leave the lid open or off. Prop up cushions Air circulation to all sides of cushions is essential. Better still, remove all loose cushions from the boat entirely and store them somewhere warm and dry for the winter. This also applies to other fabric items aboard, like linens, blankets, and PFDs. Open lockers and drawers and hatches. Adequate air circulation is the best way of combating mildew. Latch-hooks can be employed to hold cabin and locker doors slightly ajar. Prop bilge access and other compartment hatches open. Hanging a mildew control bag in the cabin is a good precaution. Cover A canvas or shrink-wrap winter cover doesn't just keep precipitation out of the boat's interior, it also protects the deck. In the winter, moisture between hardware and the deck or in minute cracks in the gelcoat repeatedly freezes, jacking the cracks wider with each cycle. Covers should be padded to prevent chafe, well secured to resist buffeting, and well ventilated to allow the circulation of air beneath the tarp. Complete List of Don Casey's How To's Archives at BoatUs.ﾃつ
ﾃつ Houseboating is Fun:
ﾃつ Houseboating has become a popular vacation and weekend activity. A Houseboat can literally be your home afloat-but a home that moves. Although houseboating is a comfortable, leisurely way in which to enjoy the water, there are things you should know before boarding. To help you put more fun and greater safety into your houseboating, the United Safe Boating Institute offers these tips below from there new 5-Tons and NO Brakes pamplhlet, which we have posted a few below for you. About those Brakes: So you've handled a sail-boat or a cruiser, have you? That's very different from handling a house boat, which averages 35 feet in length, goes between 15 and 20 miles an hour, and weighs about five tons. Having "no brakes" means that if you goof, you may be the cause of a hull-banging and paint-scraping experience, not to mention what can happen to what you've hit. Remember, REVERSING YOUR ENGINE is the only braking mechanism that you have for your houseboat.
Docking:
ﾃつ Docking can be a real thrill, especially if you forget about not having brakes. Ten thousand pounds of boat will not stop short when power is cut. It's best to approach the dock while heading Upstream, or into the wind, since the houseboat is easier to control that way. Use only enough power to maintain steerageway(your minimum speed with control). Remember, speed times weight can equal a horrible crunch! At only two miles an hour, your houseboat can damage a dock as well as itself. Approach the dock at no more than one mile per hour. Practice working with minimum speed needed to maintain response before your first docking. In the Still of the Night A new houseboater should tie up for the night at a marina or (with permission) at a private pier. A novice might not know whether a cove or quiet inlet will be safe. The boat can be left high and dry if the water recedes out of that lovely inlet during the night because of the tides. Locks and dams on the river can also cause changes in the water elevation. A peaceful river can become a roaring torrent after a hard rain upstream. If at dusk you can't reach a dock, anchor out of the main channel or tie up to trees near the bank. When about 75 feet from your anchorage, drop the stern anchor from the rear deck. Be careful not to foul your propeller. When the stern anchor is secure, move in closer and tie the bow line to some fixed object on the shore, or secure the bow anchor into the shoreline. Remember, two anchors are required to moor your houseboat adequately. Be sure the anchors you have are of sufficient weight. The owner's guide for your houseboat will give weight details for the anchors needed.
ﾃつ Refueling:
ﾃつ The riskiest operation on a houseboat, strangely enough, is refueling. Smoking, naturally, is taboo during refueling and all electrical appliances and lights should be turned off. If the boat has built-in fuel tanks, keep all doors and windows closed to prevent heavier-than-air-gasoline vapors from seeping inside cabins and the engine compartment. Fill ALL portable tanks on the dock. Ventilate before starting the engine. The blower should ALWAYS be run for a few minutes and until all gas odors have left the engine compartment. Fire: Be sure you have the proper size fire extinguishers(minimum size,five pounds)and know how to use them. Fire extinguishers, by the way, are required by law to be on board. With an engine compartment fire, the chance of explosion is present. If a fire breaks out in the engine compartment, turn the engine off at once. Fire in the galley is dangerous but preventable. Most galley fires are caused when a landlubber-cook puts too much food in a pan and doesn't take into account the pitching and rolling of the boat. Use as little fat as possible, and be sure that curtains near the stove are tied away from the flame.
ﾃつ WIRING NOTICE:
ﾃつ The American Boat and Yacht Council's color code for 12-volt wiring has changed to Yellow, instead of Black, is the newly recommended jacket color for DC ground, or negative. This safety change helps avoid confusing negative condutors with positive 120-volt AC wiring(jacketed in black).
ﾃつ Carbon Monoxide Advisory Alert Coast Guard Advisory to Recreational Boaters on Carbon Monoxide Hazard Caused by Generator Exhaust!
ﾃつ The Coast Guard advises owners and operators of boats to turn off gasoline-powered generators with transom exhaust ports when the swim platform on the stern is in use. The Coast Guard further advises that swimmers should not enter the cavity of a boat designed with a generator emitting exhaust into the cavity between the swim platform and the transom of the vessel. The Coast Guard is concerned about the serious health risk from carbon monoxide poisoning and seeks to prevent loss of life and personal injury. For More Info:Carbon Monoxide Alert
ﾃつ TUBES and PULL-Behind Toys:
These toys are fast becoming a big hit. Proper inflation is the key to getting the most out of an inflatable pull-behind. The tube should be inflated until the nylon cover is stretched tight. Tubes should be stored out of direct sunlight to protect them against UV damage. At the end of season, you should rinse, dry and deflate the tube and store it in a cool dry place. Safety is the most important fact with any Pull-behind toy. The Boat driver has the responsibility for the safety of the rider(s). The driver needs to be aware of his surroundings, always post an observer in the boat to watch the tube. The driver needs to watch the other boats and swimmers in the water in front of him at all times.
BIG BOAT-LITTLE BOAT:
The Ohio River is an important waterway and vital to the shipping industry. Thus, this means "BARGES" and Big ones. Yet Recreational Boats are continually being hit or running into Barges- and its our own fault. As recreational boaters, we tend to think our boats are too maneuverable and too small to affect a barge. WRONG! Barge's are notoriously unmanageable. First Law of Vessel Interactions! Barge's can't turn or stop worth a damn. Second Law says; If a boat hits a Barge or v.s. the loser is always the BOAT!. Always monitor Channels 13 and 16 for barge traffic and listen carefully to the traffic on the river, always give a Barge plenty of room. Boating Saftey Around River Tows(Real Player Video) Locks and Lines Saftey (Real Player Video) How to Lock Thru Animated Lock Demonstration
ﾃつ It's Here Finally! 2002 Boating Season. Soon you will be on your WAVE!
Here are some Pre-Launch tips you should preform before entering the water and after. Hoses and hose clamps should be inspected and replaced if cracked or show deterioration. Replace deteriorated zincs. Inspection the hull for blisters, distortions and stress cracks. Check engine intake sea strainer and that it is free of corrosion and secured. Check power steering and power trim fluid levels. Inspect outdrive bellows for cracked, dried or deteriorated spots. Replace if there is any question about condition. Inspect fuel tanks, fuel pumps and filters for leaks. Clean fuel filters or replace with new. Clean and tighten electrical connections on both ends of battery cables. Inspect bilge blower hose for leaks. Inspect bilge pump and float switch that it is working properly. Inspect props for dings, pitting and distortion. Make sure cotter pins are secure. Inspect cooling hoses and fittings, Make sure that they fit snug and are double clamped. You should always make sure your safety gear is in good working condition, refill or replace fire equipment, and make sure you have one Cost Guard approved life-saving device for each person aboard. Dock lines and lock lines(at least one line 100ft), accessible and not frayed and fenders are not under-inflated. Know your fuel tanks capacity and consumption at various RPMs, thus knowing your cruising radius. Make sure your marine radio is in working condition including the mike. All of these tips will provide you will a good starting point to a safe boating season.
NO WAKE ZONE!
ﾃつ April 1st, 2002 The sign says "5-mph. No Wake". If this brings grief just remember that federal law says you're responsible for your wake. This means, the guy whose boat got damaged when you waked his marina, or the guy who had to swim to shore after his johnboat flipped, can bill you, sue you, and even send you to jail. No-wake zones are not limited to areas where signs are posted. Common sense should tell you to slow down when you pass within 500 feet of a small boat, swimming area, marina, private dock and even for the morons anchored in the middle of a narrow part of the river. Slow down in advance. When in a no-wake zone, trim your drive or outboard to a vertical position. Trim tabs should be all the way up. If you have an abnormal load, neutral trim allows your boat to proceed on its natural water-line therefore this makes the smallest wake. Larger boats, particularly those with diesel engines, often can run up to 10 mph faster when simply idling in gear, In these cases, engage and disengage the drive as you proceed.
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